Tuesday, December 13, 2011

LET US Grow Lettuce

Hi , Readers. I've been having an awful time this year growing letuc, mainly due first to the lack of rain and execcs of heat and now to an exess of bugs sigh. In doing some reaserch I've found this great Artical from vegtable garden guide , which i've decided to share with you bellow.


How to Grow Lettuce By Following My
Disaster-Proof Tips and Instructions

Understanding how to grow lettuce by knowing their needs will produce great harvests. Lettuce - a plant that everybody has heard of - is popular and apparently straightforward to grow!
How to grow lettuce - Lollo Rossa

Sow lettuce seeds in spring and more in early summer, thin out the seedlings and harvest when mature. But there is more to knowing how to grow lettuce than this and treating them so casually will more often than not bring disappointment.
Lettuce variety: Little Gem Lettuce are a vegetable that grow best in cooler climates and there are many varieties that are ideally suited to the British climate. To emphasise - this vegetable does not like hot sunny conditions. They also like lots of rain so keep them moist by watering regularly.
Pests and diseases will also have an effect, they may not be killed off but they will be severely reduced in vigour. If you sow lettuce seed all at once the plants will mature all at the same time and you will have approximately one week to pick them before they begin going to seed.
Lastly - a main reason for failure when learning how to grow lettuce is that they are not grown quickly enough, the leaves become tough and leathery. It is important to ensure that the soil has adequate humous incorporated - thats organic content to you and me. The soil must also be kept moist - golly am I repeating myself - you betcha.
It is not quite as easy as some books make out but pick the right varieties, purchase a few cloches and follow the tips and instructions on this page, you can enjoy the fruits of your newly aquired knowledge on how to grow lettuce.


Lettuce variety: Cos 
http://www.vegetable-garden-guide.com/how-to-grow-lettuce.html Lettuce variety: Looseleaf 
http://www.vegetable-garden-guide.com/how-to-grow-lettuce.html
Cos Varieties
Lobjoit`s Green
Paris White
Little Gem
Winter Density
Looseleaf Varieties
Salad Bowl
Lollo Rossa


Lettuce variety: Crisphead 
http://www.vegetable-garden-guide.com/how-to-grow-lettuce.html Lettuce variety: Butterhead 
http://www.vegetable-garden-guide.com/how-to-grow-lettuce.html
Crisphead Varieties
Webbs Wonderful
Wndermere
Avoncrisp
Lakeland
Butterhead Varieties
All The Year Round
Tom Thumb
Winter Crop
Dolly



How to Grow Lettuce - Soil Details


Ideally, lettuce plants require a rich, humous-laden soil that will hold moisture in the summer. They may require the soil to have lime added as a soil pH of 6.5 is just right - test your soil - but don`t be too rigid. Quite often though, lettuce is grown between rows of slower growing plants like brussel sprouts or broccoli etc. This is called a `catch crop`. Yep, here is another reminder, water is a vital ingredient so keep the soil moist at all times.
Lettuce plants do not like hot sunny conditions, a good tip when learning how toHow to grow lettuce grow lettuce properly is to choose a lightly shaded site for your summer varieties. Dig the soil and apply compost during the autumn or early winter. A week or so before sowing your lettuce seeds rake the soil over to produce a fine tilth and apply a general fertiliser like Growmore.
Sow spring lettuce seeds into a sunny site outdoors if you live in a mild area. It may not be nescesary to give glass protection (cloche). (Just experiment - vegetable growing expertise increases dramatically only when you start to "do it".)

The possibility of failure increases the more the ground becomes poorly drained or over exposed - spring lettuce is hardest to get right... who said learning how to grow lettuce successfully was easy.


How to Grow Lettuce - Sowing Seed


Many books will advise you that lettuce seed can be sown into seed boxes or beds and the seedlings transplanted about a month later when they are about 2.5cm(1") high.
For best results this is how to grow lettuce ...lettuce plants hate being moved so always sow seed directly into the position they are going to remain, and sow them very thinly - thinning out the seedlings when the first true leaves How to grow lettuce - peat pot appear and avoiding overcrowding at all costs.
Allow the remaining seedlings to grow to maturity without disturbance. (You can try transplanting the thinnings but why waste your time when lettuce seed is so cheap).
Sow lettuce seed into beds very thinly (What! I`ve said that before - noooo :0]) into drills 13mm(½") deep with the rows 30cm(12") apart. Thin them out to 15cm(6")-30cm(12") apart depending on the variety.
For growing lettuce under glass or on a window sill for transplanting, sow a couple of seeds into a peat pot. When the seeds have germinated remove the weaker seedling, harden off then plant the whole pot along with the young lettuce seedling into its final position and the roots won`t be disturbed.
The picture to the right shows how to grow lettuce seedlings (Winter Density) whose seed were sown at the begining of February(2008). After sowing they were placed in my heated propagator in the greenhouse until they germinated.
I only returned them to the propagator on frosty nights. In fact they coped on the bench in my greenhouse in air temperatures down to -8°C. I will transplant the lettuce with the peat pot straight into my greenhouse border.
A useful tip for learning how to grow lettuce the 'recycling way' is to follow the instuctions in the previous paragraphs but instead of purchasing peat pots use an egg box (it has to be a cardboard type box) and fill the cells where the eggs sat with peat. Keep the peat moist and when the seedling is ready plant each individual cell into its growing position.
You can use the egg box method for sowing other seed types. Fill the flat side with peat sow your seed into it covering How to grow lettuce - egg box them lightly with a little more peat. Water and shut the egg box by putting the cell part on top until the first signs of germination then leave the lid open.
Once the seedlings are big enough - when the true leaves appear and are able to be handled - transplant the seedlings into the peat filled cells to grow on and harden-off ready for planting into their final position, egg box cell and all.
This is best suited for growing vegetables that don`t mind being transplanted or benifit from it. Eg. cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli etc.
To ensure a steady supply of lettuce and to avoid a glut (unless of course you are a glutton) sow little and often - every two weeks - the amount will depend on your needs.


How to Grow Lettuce - Hardening Off


This is a piece of - how to grow lettuce jargon - actually it applies to any seed you sow. Here is a quick description of what `Hardening Off` is.
This process is not only relevent in knowing how to grow lettuce correctly. It is the process of preparing all seedlings which have been grown under glass for outdoors. Initially ventilation is increased and then seedlings can be moved into cold frames.
Keep the cold frame lids (or lights) closed for a couple of weeks then begin opening them on dry frost free days and shutting at night. After a further week or when frost is not expected to be a problem leave the lids open for five days and nights before planting out.
Seedlings that have been grown on a window sill in a heated room should be moved to an unheated room and then stood outside for a couple of days prior to planting out.
If your just learning how to grow lettuce this may seem a bit tedious but you are learning a new skill which when done long enough will become second nature and you won`t notice it annnnnd - yes I will say it again ;0).... experiment because thats how you will determine what is best in your `micro climate`.


At A Glance
Expected germination time
6-12 days (germination is patchy in hot weather)
Life expectancy of stored seed
3 years
Approx time between sowing and harvesting
8-14wks (Butter/Crisphead & Cos Varieties)
6-8wks (Looseleaf Varieties)
Cultivation facts
Not difficult, sow properly and water often. Spring lettuce the hardest




How to Grow Lettuce - Caring For Your Plants


When your seedlings are tall enough they are ready to be thinned out. You must avoid overcrowding. Water your plants the day before thinning and then continue to thin out in stages until your lettuce plants are at the required distances recommended for your variety.
This adjacent picture is a look into the delicate heart of a young Winter Density lettuce plant. The differing shades of green are fresh and enticing with the outside ambient light seen gently permeating its way through the thin translucent leaves. I took this photo to show how easy the plant could be damaged at this stage.
How to grow lettuce - a delicate heart I have had a lot of success with shop bought variaties but when transplanting make sure that the lower leaves are not buried.
My success here is probably put down to the fact that these shop bought lettuce have a vigorous root system already established and so the root ball tends to stay together when transplanted.
But as I said earlier - whenever you can, sow lettuce seed where the crop will grow to maturity. How to grow lettuce to get the best out of them needs just a little attention to detail and you will be fine - you will pick great crops at harvest.
Protect your lettuce seedlings from slugs and birds (see pest control below). Hoe regularly to keep weeds down. Remove rubbish from around plants - this can harbour pests like slugs and snails. Water regularly to keep the soil moist - this is important - but less so for plants grown in soil under glass, keep it a bit dryer to stop fungus diseases taking hold, keep ventilated.
Watering in the evening increases the risk of diseases so water in the morning or midday.


How to Grow Lettuce - Pest Control


As I have indicated above lettuce is an easy crop to grow, but not necessarily easy to grow well - this is why I have said give just a little attention to some details and you will become a master at knowing how to grow lettuce plants.
Protecting against soil pests, slugs and birds is important to knowing how to grow lettuce successfully. Equally important is to prevent any check to the lettuce plants growth.
Cool, damp weather encourages the two major diseases of downy mildew and grey mould to become active and very destructive.
Good preparation and aftercare will help keep these pests and diseases to the minimum. Don`t despair and think there is too much working against us - after all there always seems an abundance of these tasty plants to go round each year.


Downy Mildew - large yellowish patches appear between the veins of older leaves. Whitish mouldy areas develop on the underside of the leaves. Diseased patches eventually turn brown and die. Worst in cool, wet conditions.
Treat by:
  • removing affected leaves as soon as the disease is observed. Spray the lettuce plants with Dithane - from any good garden centre.


Grey Mould - plants become infected through dead or damaged areas. The fungus produces a redish brown rot when it reaches the stem, causing the plant to wilt and even break off at soil level.
Masses of grey mould are produced at the point of infection. The disease is encouraged by low temperatures and high humidity. On outdoor lettuce, grey mold is a common problem in the spring and autumn when weather conditions are often favorable to it.
Treat by:
  • being careful to avoid wounding the plant during hoeing.

  • reducing the duration of leaf wetness - water in the morning or midday (not at night).

  • using wide spacing within the row - especially at susceptible times of the year - spring and autumn.

  • controlling weeds.

  • minimising crop debris around the beds at time of planting.

  • use of raised beds.

  • use crop rotation methods.
If you would like to treat the infection using a spray then talk to your friendly garden centre about what sprays are best and safe.


Root Aphid - greyish coloured aphids colonise the roots and become covered with white powdery patches. A yellowing of the leaves may occur and the plant will be stunted and wilt - disheartening if your only just learning how to grow lettuce. These attacks are worst in late summer.
Treat by:
How to grow lettuce - root aphids
  • pulling up and destroying affected plants. Don`t put them on the compost heap. There are sprays that can be used but chat with your garden centre team for what is safe and effective.

There have been trials using barriers against these type of pests which have shown promise.
By barriers I mean such things as horticultural fleece - a very thin white covering that can be draped over your crops. It allows water and light through but keeps out the baddies.
Anything that reduces the use of chemical sprays has to be good but the one drawback for me about using barrier type protection is that you don`t get see your plants growing in the same way.
When I learned how to grow lettuce and other vegetables this was all part of the excitement - but we are engaged in a war ;0).
Remember... prevention is better than cure (which is not always available), keep plants well watered during dry weather - water in the morning or midday (not at night). If attacks happen again try using resistant varieties.


Greenfly - a good understanding of how to grow lettuce must include greenfly as they not only affect the growing of lettuce but many other plants too. They spread mosaic virus (stunts plant growth) and cover the plants in an unsightly sticky honeydew (excreted by the green fly) which makes the lettuce plant unusable. Attacks are worst in a dry spring, the leaves may become badly distorted.
Treat by:
  • using fleece as a barrier or spray at the first signs of attack.
Great information can be got from the Royal Horticultural Society on greenfly pest control. A new page will open - please make sure that if your pop-up page blocker is operating that you accept this page opening.


Slugs - can also be a problem and can be dealt with using a combination of different methods. These slug pest control pointers are not only relevant in how to grow lettuce but for all the vegetable growing you will be doing!
Treat by:
  • going into your vegetable garden at night with a torch and collect the slugs by hand - they can be disposed of by placing in a box containing salt.

  • place barriers around the plants... something rough that makes it difficult for them to slither on - like egg shells or sand. Or cover your seedlings with plastic bottles with both ends cut off and pressed into the soil over them.

  • nematodes are a very effective way to kill slugs without harming people or wildlife and is becoming a popular method of control. Nematodes are naturally occuring organisms which can`t be seen by the human eye. Sold in packets - purchase them at garden centre or nursery, place the the contents as directed into a watering can, add water then apply to your vegetable garden. These little darlings then enter the slugs and kill them. They go on being effective in the soil for about six weeks.

  • slug pellets are effective but need to be used sparingly as they can be a danger to wildlife because the chemicals metaldehyde or methiocarb they contain. There are wildlife friendly pellets around these days.

  • I live next to a small stream so I am blessed with lots of frogs in my vegetable beds - they love slugs. Encourage beneficial wildlife around your veg patch - for example, purchase a purpose built hedgehog home. This all increases the enjoyment of your vegetable growing experience.
I expect that when you thought to yourself that you would like to know how to grow lettuce you didn`t realise that you would be getting so close to the wild life that frequents your beds and containers - scary stuff eh :0).


Bolting - Lettuce plants produce thick flowering stems if not picked after their hearts have formed (you have about 5-7 days max). Follow these tips how to grow lettuce and you should be ok.
One cause is a check in their growth at some stage in its life. Careless transplanting or transplanting too late maybe one cause (remember they don`t like having their roots disturbed).
Letting the lettuce plants get too dry or become too overcrowded could be another.
Best to plant into ground where they can stay undisturbed (am I repeating myself - sorry ;0]) or sow into peat pots or egg boxes under glass.(See `Useful Tip` above).
Any `bolted` plants can be pulled up and put on the compost heap - cover so aphids won`t be attracted to them.


Birds - it goes without saying that birds are to be encouraged to populate your garden. One reason is that many varieties actively eat pests, a main reason though is that they just bring life, colour and joy into our lives.
How to grow lettuce - cloche There are a few species, however, that are a serious nuisance to seeds, seedlings and mature crops. Two that come to mind are sparrows and wood pigeons.
Whilst you might be tempted to go for your air rifle remember - learning how to grow lettuce and other vegetables means learning how to compromise - you can do all you can to protect your plants but if a few get nibbled don`t fret it.
Use fleece or netting to minimise problems if these birds come-a-calling.
The photo on the right pictures some plastic coated wire mesh cloches I created. They are dead easy to make so when I get time I will post an explanation how I made them. The only material I needed was the 13mm(½") wire mesh, short cable ties and some poly pipe if you want to make arched cloches. They are very flexible as you can also cover them with fleece, shading or polythene sheet.


General precautions:
  • keep bed weeded

  • remove the stumps from harvested lettuce plants - attractive to aphids

  • remove decaying plant debris from bed



How to Grow Lettuce - Harvesting


As soon as the heart has formed the lettuce plant is ready for cutting. Check for firmness by gently pressing down on the top of the heart area with the back of your hand. This is the safest way as squeezing may damage plant tissue and if the Lettuce variety: Little Gem plant is not ready to pick some horrible diseases may enter, as discussed above.
If the plant is ready and left in the ground too long (5-7 days) the heart will start to grow upwards - a sure sign it is begining to bolt. Cut them immediately for use or dig up and compost.
When cutting for use it is best to lift the whole plant, cut off the root and lower leaves, placing them on your compost heap - don`t leave on the bed to attract pests and diseases.
You should now be holding a delicious looking lettuce plant of some variety. This is the end game - after applying your knowledge of how to grow lettuce you can now go and enjoy with pride the very real fruits of your labour, there are not many thrills greater than this.
Bon appertite.

growing peppers This is me and my greenhouse buddy - Freddie Frog signing off. We`ll be back updating and adding more pages so don`t forget to `contact us` and let us know what you would like adding to the site. Don`t forget to visit the other pages too.

Monday, October 31, 2011

Catching Rain

When we live in the city, we tend to forget that south africa is a pretty dry country by world standards - we receive and average of only 464mm per annum, compared to a global average of 860mm per annum. Despite many warnings of this matter we remain blissfully ignorant of the real price of water, until someone turns the taps off for maintenance. Lets be realistic - you cannot live without water. If your an avid gardener at least a 1/6 of your water consumption each month will go toward your garden. Which is a fair chunk. Most south african homes - have gutters to deal with the heavy evening rainstorms - The water of which most often does little to penetrate the soil and mainly runs off into the cities drainage system.

This said, creating some for of water harvesting for your home - even if it only functions effectively in the rainy season is a good idea.  You can purchas great comercial systems from - Rain Cell and Jo-Jo
( Slimline ) Which will suit the urban home very well.

If however you cannot afford such a product - there are some great do it yourself rain catchment idea's which would be worth a try. Even if your only end up with enough pressure to fill your watering can. Your still doing your bit. You could station one bellow each of your down pipes.



List of Materials

Generally all but the barrel can be purchased at any decent hardware store.

The Barrel

You will need a plastic  drum or rubbish bin ( the old ones would be best ) - something of a decent
size - with an opening that you can filter closed.  -
 ms plastics
plastic world 
have some in both 50 l  to 200 l which should be appropriate for this project.

The Spigot & Hardware

You'll need a  standard garden tap spigot  These have male threads at one end to screw into the barrel and at the other to attach a standard size hose. You'll also need a  galvanized locknut to match , a rubber washer with a  inner diameter to match , plumbers tape, superglue and silicone.

The Overflow Valve & Hardware

You'll need a ¾" brass overflow valve which, like the spigot, has male threads on either end with the outer end able to connect with the female end of a hose (plastic will work too). You'll also need the locknut, rubber washer, plumbers tape, superglue, and silicone.

Tools

  • Drill
  • 2.5mm  hole saw or drill bit (use 15/16" for very secure fit)
  • Stanley knife
  • Needle nose pliers or wrench
  • Vegetable oil and cloth
  • Screw driver and half dozen screws (see #14)
  • Meshscreen for top filter

Making Your Very Own Catchment System (a.k.a. Rain Barrel)




Click Image
To View!






  1. Clean and rinse  container with a mild soap and water (rainwater if you've got any yet)
  2. Drill a 2.5cm hole with your hole saw or drill bit, just off the bottom of the container for the spigot assembly. I put mine as low as possible to maximize easy water use. It's designed to be used with a stand. I use four cinder blocks. Note: If you are unable to reach down to the inside bottom of the barrel, you might want to use a 15/16" bit and put the washer on the outside of the barrel.
  3. Drill a 2.5cm hole about 3 cm or so below the rim for your overflow valve assembly. This hole can go anywhere around the barrel at that latitude. Keep in mind: don't put it too close to the top (overflow) or too low (lose water storage). . Please note: if you've got a large roof and those large downspouts, you may want to get a larger overflow valve.
  4. Use that 2.5cm (1") bit to drill a dozen or so holes in the lid. Rainwater will filter through meshscreen then through holes into barrel.
  5. Take utility knife to clean scraps around holes.
  6. Wrap the barrel end of the spigot three times around with Teflon tape and then screw in the spigot squarely. It should go by hand.
  7. Take the rubber washer and glue the surface of one side with a stong glue and reach into the barrel and work it over the threads. Flush with the barrel.
  8. Screw on the locknut and finish tightening by turning the spigot while holding the locknut with a wrench or needle nose pliers. You may need a second person to turn while you hold or vice versa). Authors note: I love needle nose pliers!
  9. Wrap the longer end of the overflow valve with Teflon tape three times and then screw it into the overflow hole by hand or by using a wrench or pliers if necessary. The outside male threads should be able to connect with a standard size hose to divert the overflow.
  10. Repeat #7
  11. Screw on the locknut as far as possible by hand, then hold locknut while tightening overflow valve with pliers/wrench until it flies out of your hand or is very tight.
  12. Take a tube of all-purpose silicone "goop" and apply a bead where overflow valve meets the outside of the barrel. Note: I do this as an added sealant. It may not even be necessary.
  13. Take a tube of all-purpose silicone "goop" and apply where the spigot meets the barrel. Follow drying time directions from the silicone tube.
  14. Trace the outline of the lid on a mesh fiberglass screen and then cut it out. Screw on, if necessary, or just tighten ring around cap to secure. This screen is designed to keep mosquitoes out.
  15. Alternatively - should you not have a container with a lid.  remove the lid and use the steel band , or anything else you might find, get some fine grade - shade cloth and cover the top of the barrel with this, clamp steel band over tightly and there you have your filter. 
  16. Place your barrel below your down pipe - if you do not have one invest in one.   build a small plinths with some bricks or concrete blocks, (this need not be permanent. ) to help with pressure - giving it at least enough hight for a watering can to fit bellow it.
Enjoy your new water wiser garden. 

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Get your seedlings ourdoors


Seedlings, that have been living indoors - have gotten lazy, not having to worry about frost, direct sunlight, or anything quite that dramatic. Taking seedling directly from the cosy indoor to the great outdoors may well kill your babies off, and we wouldn't want that. You will need to toughen them up, think of it like Gr R for plants.There are various methods out there, this method I've found quite helpful.
Just careful, this is africa - its HOT and DRY out there.
  1. Start about a week or two before you plant out your seedlings. Set them outdoors -- trays and all -- in a protected area, out of the direct wind and sun. Leave them out for an hour or so (set a timer if you're forgetful), then bring them back indoors.

  2. Repeat the process, increasing it to 3 hours, then a morning, then a whole day, until they are used to a full day and a night.

  3. Keep them well-watered, but not swimming. Apparently It also helps to toughen up their stems by brushing them with your hand a few times each day. But this I have not tried yet.

  4. check the weather daily especially early in the season- when we get anything from frost to 29 deg c weather, keep them indoors if anything dramatic is projected..
Once your plants are toughened up and ready to go in the garden, wait for a cloudy, foggy-cool or drizzly day. If no clouds are in the forecast, then aim for the coolness of the evening.
  • Water plants well.

  • Dig a hole slightly wider than and the same depth as the container. For cabbage, kale, broccoli, mustard spinach, cauliflower and tomatoes, bury their stems up to their first set of true leaves.

  • If your transplants are growing in plastic pots, turn the pots upside down and slide them out. Gently squeeze the bottom of the pot to dislodge stubborn roots, being careful to not tear them. 
  • I usually like to water with a good liquid plant food directly after planting to give the seedlings a fighting chance. 

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Cooling down the plants

 
cooling the plants :

So to avoid the nasty hotness descending on us at themoment. I have constructed this little shading device out of hesian and dowel sticks.Its a pretty Basic triangular - construction.         1.you will need 5 dowel sticks                                   
2.Hessian cloth  ( sack cloth )     / Shade Cloth                                                              
3. string.

Wayne ( My Husband )  decided he did not approve of my shading devise so we made a shading screen instead.
Which is effectivly the same construction just with an upright, and cross bar, to hang the cloth over, It does allow for access for watering which is a big bonus. See Bellow

Plant screen




                                                                                                           
 Our lovely porch - is looking rather green at present in my attempt to rescue my plants from burning up in the heat.





Monday, October 24, 2011

Its Hot The Cacti are happy but the peas arn't

Hi all, if your garden is anything like mine - You will be crying at this weeks temperature -expectations of between 29-31 deg C all week. I've just planted my seedlings, :o( The rain it will not come. So
I've done a little research on, what to do you save your plants.








1. Shad cloth and cover - this is what I am going to be doing tonight -  off to builders warehouse with me to bye some shade cloth and , someting to build a make shift garden cover with.


2. Give beds a deep watering : I found this expatiation from this website. Deep root Watering


The Deep Root Watering Method Explained:
a. To allow the water to penetrate and not run off, till or loosen the top one-inch layer of soil in the flower gardening plant bed.
Be careful around newer plantings, as some of the roots will be nearer the surface and will be fragile.
b. For better results, use a good water nozzle, one that breaks the water flow into multiple, gentle streams.
d. Start watering at a point in your yard that you can work your way back to. Slowly work your way around your garden.
e. Make sure to thoroughly water each individual plant and any open or unplanted area around them.
For a typical 4x1.5 m bed, spend 5 minutes watering; then slowly work your way around the rest of your garden.
f. Now you’re done for about a week, depending upon the weather.

Alternatively you can purchase slow seeping hose to bury just bellow the soil in your garden beds. And get to the root of the matter.


3.  Mulch : Mulching your garden is a great way to conserve - water as if helps prevent evaporation.
You can use both organic mulch such as bark chips, dry law clippings, autumn leaves, Overtime as they decay they will add to the soil fertility.Inorganic materials such as pebbles, gravel can also be used. Although, I've never tried this, obliviously not so good for vegetable gardens , But should work well for larger plans and shrubs.
you can also find a great description on this website:   janes deliciouse garden blog.


4. Move your pot plants into a cooler location : As soil heats up in pot plants - and can damage the roots of your plants - it is best in extremely hot weather to simply move your plans indoors , We have a sun room on the south side of our house which I'm using that is working well. If you don't have something as handy as this simply moving your plants into the shadiest part of your garden or into the south side of your house might be a good option for the next few days.

 5. Water in the evening: or the early hours of the morning to avoid the most evaporation.  And give water time to settle into the ground before its gets sucking up by the dry air.

Well I wish you luck . 

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Terrarium - Experiment Resluts




Terrarium 1 : cling film over old Enamel basin.
(If you wish to use an enamel basin as a planter best results were gained by drilling some nice large hold in the base. )





Terrarium  2 : coke bottles.        


Terrium 3 : Cling- film over  cat litter boxes.
I've used these mainly for seedling but they seem to have worked fine for other things. 

As you can see - I've had some good success with these methods and will defiantly be using them again come, winter seedling time.  I has not rained much - so I've delayed - transplanting for a week or two.


Coming next - My garden progress.  - We moved house in April so by the time we'd gotten settled it was May-June and too late to plant anything, so we had a dust bowl of a back garden for months. With empty beds- which we cleared of neglect from various previous owners. ( we even found an entire lemon tree underneath a rather enthusiastic creeper-   but this are looking up!

Friday, October 14, 2011

Seedling 2 :

Second discovery  from the first one - was the cling film, terrarium: using the idea of creating a nice cosy moist environment for the seeds to grow in , I used two clean cat little boxes and some cling film.

This one is great for getting seedling ready to plant in your garden. I do recommend you use a growing guide to see when the optimum time to do this is. this this website has a great garden planner which will tell you when to plan what plants.

You will need :

1 x cat litter box.
cling wrap.
4 seed trays.
seeds of your choice.
light windowsill or sun-room.
pegs

1. Pre-per seeds as describe previously.
2. place seed trays in cat litter box.
3. Water well.
4. use 3 pegs to secure cling wrap to one side.
5. Slowly roll film over pegging to side as needed.
6. peg to opposite end and cut.
7. place seeds in light window or sun room
8. Allow seeds 7 days to sprout.
9. once seed have sprouted - watch closely for mould, as soon as seed have first 2 leaves. Remove cling film and allow to grown until at least 4 leaves are visible or seedling look strong. Turning every day to avoid on sided growth, and water regularly.
10. once seed look strong enough take out doors for a day or two and trans plant to prepared beds or
 pots as required.